7 min read

How to Formulate a Beard Oil – A Step-By-Step Guide

Written By: Robin Lander

If you know, you know: growing and maintaining a healthy-looking beard is no simple task. The growing phase may be awkward and uncomfortable at times, but it doesn’t end there. Proper care of facial hair and the skin beneath can make all the difference between an unruly nest and a soft, lustrous masterpiece.

Beards face a lot of challenges on a daily basis, including bed beard, overwashing, exposure to the elements, and, well, eating anything. To obtain a desirable mane, facial hair is best cared for in the same way one conditions the face, scalp, and hair.

Formulating a nourishing, custom-made beard oil is a wonderful treat for yourself or a loved one. And with Father’s Day approaching, it’s a great way to create a personalized gift for a bearded dad or caregiver in your life. Whether you’re caring for your own beard or handcrafting for another, knowing how to tailor a formula to a specific hair type, skin needs, and preferred texture will help you create a blend that keeps both beard and skin looking and feeling their best.

Go as simple or as luxe as you want, and don’t forget – adding a pleasing aroma with essential oils can elevate a beard oil from showstopping to jaw-dropping. Follow along as we guide you through the process of formulating a beard oil, from ingredient selection to fragrance design.

Step One: Consider the Hair Type and the Skin Beneath

When it comes to hair on the face, think about both the nature of the hair itself, as well as the condition of the skin beneath.

Hair type: Is the beard hair coarse, dry, fine, thin, or oily?

Skin type: Is the skin beneath the beard dry, mature, oily/congested, or sensitive?

Texture preference: Do you want the formula to feel light and silky, ultra-rich and moisturizing, or a balance in between?

Step Two: Choose Core Carrier Oils by Hair Type

Carrier oils extracted from nutrient-dense nuts and seeds are the foundation of a beard oil, providing vitamins such as A and E, antioxidants, and beneficial fatty acids to help soften and condition the hair and skin. They also help replace natural oils lost by cleansing, hot water, and exposure to the elements.

For best formula stability, texture, and benefits, you’ll want to choose 1-2 core carrier oils that will be the base of your formula. These are essential for healthy-looking hair, so make your selection based on hair type.

For coarse and/or dry beard hair:

·         Argan Oil – Organic – a medium-weight oil that deeply penetrates and moisturizes dry, brittle hair, helping reduce split ends and breakage.

·         Baobab Oil – Organic – a richer, medium-weight texture that softens, smooths, and locks in moisture, helping restore hair elasticity and shine.

·         Sunflower Oil – Organic – wonderfully lightweight with superb moisture-conserving properties for replenishing dry hair and skin and imparting suppleness.

For fine, thin, and/or oily beard hair:

·         Jojoba Oil, Golden - Organic – conditions similarly to human sebum, helping balance oil and improving the appearance of volume without adding greasiness or clogging hair follicles. It benefits all hair types, helping reduce frizz.

·         Marula Oil - Organic - ultra smooth, lightweight and silky, fortifying the hair cuticle and providing low-viscosity conditioning that won’t clump fine hair together.

·         Camellia Seed Oil - Organic - naturally occurring, lightly astringent tannins give a luxurious, clean, ‘dry oil’ feel and lustrous locks, without feeling heavy or clogging pores.

Feel free to mix and match oils from either category to achieve the ideal texture and benefits you’re looking for.

Step Three: Choose Targeted Enhancer Oils by Skin Type

Once you’ve selected your core carrier oils, you can further customize your formula by choosing 1-3 enhancer carrier oils to address the skin beneath the beard as well as the hair itself.

Enhancer carrier oils contain targeted nutrients and more delicate fatty acids and are best added in smaller amounts to your formula. Note the texture and benefits of the oils below and choose accordingly for your formula.

For dry/mature skin:

·         Cacay Seed Oil – a medium-weight, emollient oil that revitalizes skin and hair with potent retinoids and vitamin E, helping retain moisture while brightening and improving skin tone and texture.

·         Rosehip Seed CO2 – Organic – a rich oil with a luscious feel that improves the appearance of skin and hair elasticity and imperfections while maintaining softness.

·         Cranberry Seed Oil - Organic – an exceptionally nourishing, nutrient-rich oil that deeply moisturizes skin and hair with a fine texture and clean feel.

For oily/congested skin:

·         Pumpkin Seed Oil – Organic – a light to medium-weight oil that helps condition and clarify skin and hair follicles to support the look of full and glossy hair.

·         Strawberry Seed Oil – Organic – a lightweight oil with a subtle strawberry scent that supports the skin’s natural barrier and improves the appearance of imperfections and congested skin.

·         Chia Seed CO2 - Organic – an antioxidant-packed oil with a weightless feel that conditions and calms skin, balances oil, and tames hair quickly and comfortably.

For sensitive skin:

·         Sandalwood Nut CO2 – an eco-friendly, rich yet lightweight, ‘dry’ oil that helps calm the skin and clarify hair follicles.

·         Sea Buckthorn CO2 – Organic – bright red-orange and high in beta-carotene, only 5-10 drops of this thick oil per ounce of formula are needed to support the skin’s natural barrier and address dryness and itch.

·         Tamanu (Foraha) Oil – Organic – a rich, emollient oil with a distinct nutty, pecan-like aroma that helps calm beard issues while softening the skin and hair.

Step Four: Build Your Signature Scent with Essential Oils (Optional):

Uplevel your formulation by adding essential oils for a personalized fragrance. However, it’s important to use skin-safe essential oils and low dilutions to reduce the risk of irritation. For sensitive skin, you may want to omit essential oils altogether.

Ready to build your own signature scent? The following essential oils are popular choices for beard formulations. To design a balanced and longer-lasting scent, choose 1-2 aromas from each note category:

·         Base Notes: Buddha Wood, Cedarwood oils such as Cedarwood, Atlas – Organic, Cognac, Fir, Balsam Absolute - 10%, Frankincense, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Vanilla CO2, Organic - 10%, and Vetiver.

·         Middle Notes: Bay Rum Leaf, Tansy, Blue, Clary Sage - Organic, Cypress Leaf - Organic, Ginger, Fresh – Organic, Hinoki Wood, Rosemary ct Cineole, Sage - Organic, and florals like Rose and Jasmine.

·         Top Notes: Citrus oils like Bergamot FCF, Orange, Sweet – Organic, and Yuzu, Distilled, tree needle oils like Pine and Fir, spices such as Peppercorn, Pink and Coriander, as well as Juniper Berry CO2 - Organic and Lavender.

To test the aroma in combination, place a drop of each of your chosen base, middle, and top note(s) on the end of fragrance tester strips, hold the strips together, and wave them gently under your nose. Does the combination smell pleasing?

Notice the odor intensity of each essential oil and use that information to guide you on how much to include in your scent blend.

To learn more about how to dilute essential oils for topical use, see our helpful article on Dilution Solutions. For more about blending for aroma, see Natural Perfumery Basics.

Step Five: Include an Antioxidant (optional)

To boost the stability of your formula, slow oxidation, and extend the overall freshness, add one of the following antioxidants:

·         Rosemary Antioxidant CO2 - Organic – add 2-4 drops per ounce of formula.

·         Vitamin E Oil - Bioxan ® SF – add 1-6 drops per ounce of formula.

Step Six: Calculate and Build Your Formulation

Now that you’ve chosen your ingredients, it’s time to start building your formula. Begin by testing the texture and aroma of each carrier oil by placing a drop on the back of your hand. How does it feel and smell on your skin? How does your skin appear after applying?

Next, take note of which oils will be the core carriers of your formula, and which will be your enhancer oils. While there are no hard rules, to optimize both product stability and texture, a good guideline is:

·         Core carrier oils: 50-90% of your formula

·         Enhancer carrier oils: 10-50% of your formula

If you plan to include essential oils, check the Safety Considerations on the product page for any precautions or contraindications. Since beard oils are applied to the face, you may want to follow the suggested dilution for facial oils and serums at 0.5-1% essential oils. Some fragrance-lovers may prefer a higher dilution of up to 2% essential oils:

·         0.5% dilution is about 4-5 total drops of essential oils in 1 oz. of carrier base.

·         1% dilution is about 7-9 total drops of essential oils in 1 oz. of carrier base.

·         2% dilution is about 15-18 total drops of essential oils in 1 oz. of carrier base.

With your ingredient selections and percentages in mind, you’re ready to build your formula. Here’s an example of how those choices might come together in a 1 oz. (30 ml) beard oil with 2% essential oils:

Forest Fresh Beard Oil

Ingredients:

10 ml Argan Oil – Organic (a core carrier, at about 33%)

10 ml Jojoba Oil, Golden-Organic (a core carrier, at about 33%)

5 ml Pumpkin Seed Oil – Organic (an enhancer carrier, at about 17%)

3 ml Cacay Seed Oil (an enhancer carrier, at about 10%)

2 ml Cranberry Seed Oil - Organic (an enhancer carrier, at about 6%)

12 drops Fir, Balsam Absolute - 10% (an absolute pre-diluted in Jojoba Oil)

10 drops Pine, Pinyon – Wild essential oil

3 drops Sage - Organic essential oil

2 drops Rosemary Antioxidant CO2 - Organic (about 0.2%)

Plus:

1 oz. Glass bottle with Glass Dropper

5 Large Measuring Stem Pipettes

4 Fine Stem Pipettes

Step Seven: Blend and Bottle

Set the 1 oz. glass bottle on a paper towel to absorb any spills. Use the large measuring pipettes to add each carrier oil (Argan, Jojoba, Pumpkin, Cacay, and Cranberry Seed Oils) to the bottle. Then, use the fine pipettes to add each essential oil (Fir, Pine, and Sage essential oils).

If adding the Rosemary Antioxidant CO2, warm the Rosemary Antioxidant CO2 bottle in a bowl of warm water to liquify, shake well, then use a fine stem pipette to add it to your formula.

Cap the bottle and gently shake to combine. Don’t forget to label the bottle with the name of your product, the date, and include the ingredients if possible.

Step Eight: Application of the Beard Oil

Congratulations on creating your own custom beard oil! Start by testing a few drops on the back of your hand. Notice the aroma, texture, and how your skin feels afterward. It may take 24-48 hours for the essential oil aroma to fully mature and incorporate into your carrier oils.

To use, dispense 2-3 drops into the hand, rub palms together to warm, and apply to beard to soften, condition, and help control frizz. For best results and spreadability, apply to a slightly damp beard and skin, such as immediately after cleansing and towel-drying.

To help condition the skin beneath, gently press the oil into the skin first, then smooth the rest through the beard. If the beard feels greasy afterward, use fewer drops per application. Discontinue use if irritation occurs.

A once-a-day application is typical for most beards, however some may prefer every other day. Those in very cold climates or with very dry beards may prefer two applications a day.

We recommend performing a patch test when working with any of our ingredients topically, especially before use on the face. Please check the Safety Considerations on the product pages and always check with your physician before using any oils if you are on medication or have a serious medical condition.

Additional Scent Formulas

Feeling a different aromatic vibe? Here are some variations you may prefer for the scent portion of your formula:

Herbaceous and Spicy

2 drops Sandalwood, Australian – Premium essential oil

2 drops Rosemary ct Cineole essential oil

5 drops Bay Rum Leaf essential oil

5 drops Orange – Wild essential oil

3 drops Lime – Expressed essential oil

Woody Green and Citrusy

3 drops Buddha Wood Oil essential oil

5 drops Cypress Leaf – Organic essential oil

7 drops Yuzu, Distilled essential oil

Final Notes for Formulators

While topical oil formulations are at their best when used fresh, proper storage will extend their life. Kept in a cool, dark place, most oil-based formulations will remain stable for about 4-6 months. If you’ve added an antioxidant, your formula may last for a year, or perhaps longer. Ultimately, shelf life depends on the stability of the carrier oils you’ve chosen as well as the protectiveness of your packaging (dark glass is ideal). Be sure to store any unused portions of your carrier oils tightly sealed in the refrigerator.

A handcrafted beard oil is a thoughtful way to celebrate the bearded dads and caregivers in your life, or give yourself a little everyday self-care luxury. Keep a journal of your formulations and how skin and beard respond so that you can recreate your favorites and refine them over time. You may notice that the skin and beard prefer richer oils in colder months and lighter blends during warmer weather. Experiment with different carrier oils and essential oils to create seasonal variations and new aromas. And enjoy the creative process!