4 min read

Why You Need Mushroom in Your Perfume

Written By: Robin Lander

There’s a dirty little secret known to experienced perfumers: the most intriguing fragrances always contain something a little ‘off.’ Historically, formulators used animal-derived aromas like ambergris, civet, and castoreum, now mostly replaced by synthetic versions. But perfumers still rely on the funky facets in botanicals, like the fermented nuance of Agarwood, the indolic note in Jasmine Sambac, or the wet animal undertone of Patchouli.

What makes these stinky aromas so compelling? The fact is, the real world doesn’t smell all that clean. The musky, sulfurous scent of body and skin, the ripening of fruit, the decay of old leaves and greenery – we’re constantly surrounded by organic aromas that smell alive. The most beautifully scented flowers often emit subtle ‘meaty’ notes that make them more enticing to pollinators. These lifelike aromas hit a primal chord within us, reminding us of the liberating wildness of nature.

What we truly find captivating is the combination of both clean and dirty notes in a composition. A hint of damp, earthy Oakmoss Absolute in a woodland accord gives a more realistic impression of a lush forest floor. An odd sulfur compound in Black Currant Bud Absolute smells catty but becomes incredibly alluring when diluted. The way perfumers use a touch of earthy, musky, and animalic essences to ‘dirty’ a fragrance makes a perfume smell more real.

Which brings us to an exciting new ingredient for perfumers, Mushroom Extract, White (FCO). This unexpected material has a remarkably true-to-life aroma that lends complex texture and rounded naturalness to compositions. Read on to learn how to use this surprisingly versatile extract in your next perfume.

Mushroom Extract, White (FCO)

New to our collection, our rare White Mushroom Extract offers a rich, creamy, multi-layered mushroom aroma with earthy, woody-mossy, salty, fatty, and subtly animalic nuances. While undeniably gourmand, White Mushroom Extract has a smoothness, soft authenticity, and modest tenacity that imparts creaminess, richness, and realism to a wide range of compositions without overpowering.

How It’s Made

Extracted at our facility in France, our White Mushroom Extract is produced from the stems and caps of Agaricus bisporus mushrooms grown and harvested year-round. In a proprietary process similar to liquid-liquid extraction, the dried mushrooms are dissolved into a natural solvent (coconut-derived MCT oil) to gently separate their aromatic compounds. The result is a concentrated mushroom extract held within a base of 98% MCT oil, capturing the mushroom’s distinctive aroma and character.

What White Mushroom Extract Can Do in Your Perfume

·         Add depth to leather, musk, and woody bases and to agrestic notes like Tobacco and Hay

·         Enhance amylaceous (starchy) notes such as Barley Extract, Roasted

·         Give dimension to salicylic notes in Tuberose, Orange Blossom, and other white florals

·         Boost amylic (sweet and fruity) notes like Cognac or Osmanthus

·         Impart delicate creaminess to Agarwood, Cocoa, Rose, and Orris

·         Lend atmospheric ‘wet soil’ effects alongside Vetiver, Patchouli, and Oakmoss

·         Bring deeper realism to Green notes like Galbanum and Violet Leaf

·         Round edges, especially with Beeswax

How to Use White Mushroom Extract

With its smooth richness and modest tenacity, White Mushroom Extract best serves as a textural enhancer rather than a statement note. It’s an excellent modifier for heart and base note accords, bringing both creaminess and earthiness. Start with trace amounts when paired with delicate florals and higher amounts with base notes.

Due to the oil base of this extract, it’s best suited for oil-based formulations, however it is partially soluble (up to 10%) in alcohol.

Magical Mushroom

No, it isn’t that kind of mushroom… but our White Mushroom Extract is sensory expanding in its own way.  It will help you build compelling realism and sensual depth, particularly in fougère, chypre, woody, earthy, mossy, and floral fragrances. It may be just the thing you’re looking for to help bring your perfumes to life. And for true aroma-lovers and intrepid formulators, that is a transformative experience.