About Patchouli Oil

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Patchouli (Pogostemon cablin), a tropical perennial plant, is a member of the Labiatae family that includes Lavender, Rosemary and Sage. Although its origin may be traced to Southeast Asia, it is extensively cultivated in various Indonesian Islands, India, the Philippines, Malaysia, China, and South America. The oil extracted from the leaves is well known for its deep, earthy, musky/erotic fragrance and long-lasting fixative properties. While it is used extensively around the world in aromatherapy and in natural as well as luxury perfumes, it is unfortunate that some people still have a strong aversion to Patchouli’s scent based on their encounters with very poor quality and/or synthetic fragrances that were prevalent in the ’60s. Regardless of personal opinions, there is so much more to Patchouli than meets the nose.

It is interesting that most people associate Patchouli in all forms with India, although the literature indicates that the plant was not introduced or cultivated there until 1834. While there are records for its use in China between 420 and 589 CE, curiously it doesn’t appear to be indigenous there either, but to have been introduced via the Philippines. Both India and China discovered that the redolent herb was useful as a very effective insect deterrent. Fast forward: for that very purpose, in the early 19th century, Patchouli leaves were folded in with Indian scarves and shawls destined for Europe to prevent moths from attacking the fabrics during transit. Auspiciously, the aroma was soon ‘discovered’ by French perfumers who were quick to adopt the exotic fragrance from the East into their own creations. At this point, although Patchouli leaves were being used for fragrance, the distillation and application of essential oils in China and India occurred much later.

For more substantial information about the production of Patchouli oils, it is best to turn to Indonesia. This region is the perfect host for Pogostemon species – it is tropical, hot and humid, with plenty of rain and moderate temperatures. The plant prefers well-drained soil with sufficient organic matter to nourish the roots and stimulate ample leaf growth. The propagation of root cuttings occurs before the rains when there is plenty of cloud cover to protect the young plants from being burned by the sun. Propagation, along with subsequent harvesting, is labor intensive and should be reflected in the price of a genuine Patchouli oil.

According to some sources, only the top sets of leaves and stems contain the highest amount of volatiles – one observer noting that Patchouli must be harvested at its peak, when “foliage becomes pale green to light brownish and when the stand emits characteristic patchouli odour, which could be easily smelt by a passer-by, especially in the morning hours.” This means that to obtain the highest quality oils, only the 3 to 5 opposing sets of uppermost mature leaves should be picked, then spread out to dry, out of direct sunlight. Careful shade drying with adequate air circulation ensures that the volatiles in the leaves do not evaporate, while preventing dampness and fermentation that carry the potential to impart a ‘moldy’ scent to the essential oil during distillation.

Depending on a number of factors, including age of the plants, harvesting technique and care of the fields, a crop of Patchouli may be harvested 3 to 4 times per year for the roughly 3-year life span of the plants. If only the uppermost leaves are harvested, quick regeneration is ensured, but care must be taken not to harvest prematurely. Immature leaves result in a lower yield when distilled and will not contain the full spectrum of aromatic molecules that constitute a fine Patchouli oil. One supplier notes that a higher yield and a superior oil results from leaves that have been shade dried for 4 to 6 months. The oil content in the leaves ranges from 2.5 to 3.5%, with the main global producers being Indonesia, China and Malaysia. India produces so little that they actually import some, including oils that have been ‘formulated’ (not 100% Patchouli). This is precisely why working with trusted suppliers is truly a great advantage.

Many who collect Patchouli oils talk about them in the same way as those who collect vintage wines – as well they should, since connoisseurs know that this is one of the few essential oils, including Amyris, Cedarwood, Sandalwood and Vetiver, that grow mellower, smoother, and more refined with age. With what could be expressed as botanical benevolence, Patchouli’s universal uses span aromatherapy, skin care, cosmetics, insect deterrent, incense, and perfumery.

Eden Botanicals offers a unique variety of Patchouli oils. Our Patchouli, Dark is steam distilled and has the depth and richness expected in an oil distilled from properly matured Patchouli leaves. Our Patchouli, Light (formerly Patchouli, Iron-Free) is much like Patchouli, Dark, but is distilled in stainless steel vessels, and has smoother, lighter notes and color. We offer an Organic Patchouli from one of our favorite suppliers – it is complex and refined, with exquisite nuances. We also have a unique type of Patchouli not often found: our Patchouli, Double Distilled is created by a two-part process – steam distillation followed by molecular distillation. This type of Patchouli is perfect for natural perfumery as it is virtually colorless and has a deep, incredibly smooth aroma that is very tenacious.

If you are not sure which Patchouli is right for you, we offer a Patchouli Sampler Pack for an easy, affordable way to compare the oils before committing to a larger purchase. For those who are not ready to jump into do-it-yourself perfumery, we offer Patchouli Amber Spice, one of our Essence Blends, diluted and ready-to-use directly on the skin as a natural perfume. For those who are ready to jump into making their own perfumes, please see our informative article Natural Perfumery Basics to start a personal aromatic journey.

Click here for more information and to explore our collection of Patchouli oils.