Aldehydes are the aromatic compounds responsible for the tart, lemony fragrance we smell in Melissa (Melissa officinalis), Lemon Verbena (Lippia citriodora), Citronella (Cymbopogon nardus), Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus), and Lemon Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus citriodora). Lemon oil does not contain aldehydes and therefore does not share therapeutic properties with these oils.

Studies have shown that “essential oils with a high Aldehyde content” tend to display a sedating action on muscular tissue and have been used in therapeutic blends for their strong “sedative and anti-inflammatory effects” (Schnaubelt , 1995). Those experiencing pain and discomfort from overexertion, injury, arthritis or tendonitis often feel relief of symptoms after only one application of a blend which includes one of these aldehyde-rich essences. Aldehyde containing oils with the highest “citronellal content “ (Eucalyptus citriodora and Citronella) are considered to be the most appropriate for this particular use (Schnaubelt 1999).

A second feature of the aldehydes are their distinct antiviral effects, “specifically effective against herpes outbreaks” (Schnaubelt 1995). According to Dr. Schnaubelt, “essential oils counteract viral diseases gently and effectively by inhibiting the pathogen and by improving the overall metabolic activity and immune response” (1999). Aldehyde-containing oils with the highest “citral content “ (Lemongrass, Lemon Verbena and Melissa) are considered to be the most appropriate for this particular use (Schnaubelt 1999). Lesions which appear as cold sores on the lips or on the lower torso retreat much sooner or are avoided completely if aldehyde-containing essential oils are applied as soon as the tingling or other warning signs of an outbreak are first noticed. Preparations with aldehyde-rich essential oils are commonly found in European pharmacies and are sold over-the-counter to the hundreds who suffer recurring symptoms of this type. Dr. Schnaubelt notes that “Melissa oil appears to be one of the strongest antiviral agents available in aromatherapy” and “with only a few topical applications, an outbreak can be ended and the blisters dried up” (1995).

Be aware that aldehydes are potential skin irritants and have been “implicated in some dermal sensitivity reactions” (Tisserand 1995). Even when diluted in blends, skin irritation may occur with certain essential oils, especially on sensitive skin. Check the formulas below for proper dilution. If reddening does occur, increase the proportion of vegetable oil or discontinue treatment.

• Anti-Inflammatory Blend
• Use daily, as needed, for pain due to inflammation
• 10 drops Melissa, Lemon Verbena, Citronella, Lemongrass, or Eucalyptus citriodora
• 5 drops Fir Balsam, Douglas Fir or Silver Fir
• 1 drop Birch or Wintergreen
• 2 drops Helichrysum
• 1 oz Sunflower Oil
• 
  
• Antiviral Blend
• Use directly on lesions
• 25 drops Total Melissa, Lemon Verbena, Citronella, Lemongrass, or Eucalyptus citriodora
• 5 drops Ravensara
• 5 drops Geranium or Palmarosa
• ½  oz Sunflower Oil
• ½ oz Tamanu (Foraha) Oil

Sources:

Schnaubelt, Kurt (1995) Advanced Aromatherapy: The Science of Essential Oil Therapy. Cologne, Germany: Healing Arts Press.

Schnaubelt, Kurt (1999) Medical Aromatherapy: Healing with Essential Oils. Berkeley, CA: Frog, Ltd.

Tisserand, Robert & Balacs, Tony (1995) Essential Oil Safety: A Guide for Health Care Professionals. New York, New York: Pearson Professional Limited.

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We are so lucky to have such amazing individuals choosing Eden Botanicals as their supplier that we've decided to showcase their talents via informational interviews which will appear in our newsletters. In this issue, we bring you Terry Bryant, Advanced Soapmaker and co-owner of MoonEssence, in Petaluma, CA:

My passion for natural soapmaking began in 1995 when I took a class on how to formulate natural products. I was taught the basics on how to make lip balm, soap and how to use essential oils - I was hooked. Fascinated by the chemistry aspect of it all, I volunteered at a local lab to learn more, and from there entered into the wonderful world of soapmaking.

For those who may not know, there are three levels of certification through the Soapmaker's Guild; Basic, Advanced and Master. I've worked through Basic and Advanced, and am currently in the process of getting my Master Soapmaker certification. Each step requires several tests of soapmaking ability whereby soap is created through cold, hot, and melt and pour processes at progressive levels of difficulty.

One of the most interesting things I have done to become certified includes making soap using the colonial method. This involves rendering tallow from beef fat and making lye from wood ash. This process definitely makes one appreciate what our ancestors went through to create basic necessities out of whatever materials they had on hand. I have used the colonial method to teach a group of volunteers working with the Osukuru village in Uganda, who in turn taught members of the community. The goal of this project was to spread the knowledge of soapmaking while simultaneously encouraging disease control and reducing the infant mortality rate. The tribe was able to learn every aspect of the soapmaking process, including creating their own tallow and lye. A chicken feather can actually be used as a natural pH strip to measure the alkalinity of homemade lye. If the feather dissolves upon insertion, the lye is deemed strong enough to complete the saponification process.

Our company, MoonEssence, is dedicated to providing premium, all natural/organic skin care. Our products are created using certified Organic, premium quality ingredients, including essential oils, and are FREE of Parabens, Mineral Oil, Petroleum derivatives, synthetics, and Sodium Lauryl Sulfate.

One of the challenges of using all natural materials is stabilizing the longevity of the aroma in soap. I've found it's always good to combine multiple notes. The top notes are more volatile and dissipate faster, middle notes have more longevity, and base notes the longest. Some oils - such as Clove Bud and Laurel Leaf, which contain Eugenol, can speed up the saponification process. This means your soap can get too firm, too fast. You may need to raise the temperature of your oils and lye water to prevent this from happening.

I typically don't use absolutes in my soaps, because they are too cost prohibitive. Although for hobbyists who make smaller batches of milled soap - the process of grating and re-melting soap - more expensive oils could work. When milling soap, the saponification process has already occurred so there is less heat and thus less loss of aroma. In short, you don't need to use as much essential oil to get similar results.

I use anywhere from 3-6.5 oz of pure essential oil for every 36 bars of soap made, with each bar in a batch weighing roughly 5 oz. When using essential oils, the scent will become locked inside and may not be perceived from the exterior of a dry bar. Upon wetting and lathering, the essential oils will be released and the smell will become more apparent. The aroma strength and longevity of essential oils is less than that of synthetic fragrances. However, the benefits far outweigh this drawback. Not only will essential oils drastically increase the therapeutic value of your soap but you will not be using potentially harmful chemicals on your skin, the largest and most absorptive organ in your body.

Our company also offers custom formulations as well as private labeling. I've created custom soaps for wineries such as Ceago, using their wine, olive oil & essential oil; soap for Point Reyes Blue Cheese using the whey from their factory, and for an olive oil company using the Sansa (ground up olive pits still full of oleic acid) to make their gardener's soap. I've also been commissioned to create gentle baby soaps from 100% castile, and a castile pet shampoo with essential oils for repelling fleas and ticks. My soaps have a pretty strong presence in the Northern California Whole Foods Markets as well.

The best way to pass on the soapmaking tradition is to teach. I offer a two-hour class that teaches you everything you need to know about soapmaking, including handouts on how to build your own formula according to personal desires and needs.

You will learn how different vegetable oils can create various types of foam and have their own cleansing abilities. We talk about the use of essential oils and other natural materials to incorporate into your soap to make it unique.

The cost of the class is $50, with a $12 materials fee. You get to take home two bars of soaps that you helped make, or, if you don't want to wait for the 4-week curing process, you can choose two bars of soap from my studio.

• To contact Terry:
• Email: terry@moonessence.com
• Phone: 707.763.5363
• Website: moonessence.com
• Address: 15 Western Ave., Petaluma, CA 94952

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If your business is interested in being featured in one of our Newsletters, please contact us!

The aroma of essential oils can evoke a myriad of emotional responses, depending on the chemistry of the oil and your own association with the smell. Their fragrances can arouse memories from childhood, as well as important moments in life that bring up an emotional response. They can be emotionally uplifting like Neroli, have aphrodisiac properties like Ylang Ylang, or help reduce anxiety like Marjoram or Mandarin.

But it is what is in their chemical makeup that truly affects the brain in a multitude of ways. When an essential oil or blend of oils is inhaled the odor molecules move up the nasal passageways and trigger olfactory and nerve receptors that directly affect the limbic system, that part of the brain responsible for emotion and memory. This stimulates the brain to release neurochemicals and hormones that have an effect on the body as well as emotional response, helping to reduce feelings of stress, anxiety, and even sadness.

We encourage you to use the beautiful power of scent to create a happy, more peaceful state of being. Two that can help you find the right oils are The Fragrant Mind: Aromatherapy for Personality, Mind, Mood and Emotion, by Valerie Ann Worwood, and Aromatherapy - Scent and Psyche, by Peter & Kate Damian. As always, happy blending and enjoy!

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Introduced to the Aromatherapy world for the first time only 15 years ago, Rosalina essential oil has become a quiet star. Rosalina is a member of the Melaleuca genus, which includes the more illustrious Tea Tree and Niaouli oils, but she has more in common with Lavender, Rosewood, Coriander Seed and Thyme ct linalool. These oils all contain a very high percentage of linalool, which is the monoterpene alcohol in Rosalina (between 42-62%), chiefly responsible for her systemic relaxing effects. Also present in major proportions in Rosalina are the oxide 1,8-cineole, an important respiratory support molecule, along with a group of monoterpenes, tiny molecules responsible for rapid activity against infection.

Energetically, Rosalina is perhaps the oil best suited for topical massage (3-5% dilution in a carrier oil) or inhalation in cases of cold, flu, indeed any respiratory infection. This oil has been found to be gentle enough to apply undiluted (never on mucous membranes or sensitive areas), however experience has shown that most oils are MORE highly active when LESS is applied. When essential oils are diluted in a carrier oil or are vaporized with a diffuser, the liberated molecules show remarkable activity, more so than when used undiluted!

Rosalina massages, chest rubs and inhalations are best done in the evenings, before bed, as she deeply relaxes both the mind and body. According to Dr. Daniel Penoël, her capacity to soothe worries, calm headaches and irregular heartbeats and reduce stress in the nervous, respiratory and digestive systems is almost unparalleled in any other single oil. Take Rosalina home, you’ll love her!

The FDA has not evaluated the statements in this article. No claims are made as to any medicinal value of this oil or any products from Eden Botanicals. The information presented here is for educating our customers about the traditional uses of essential oils and is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease. You are responsible for understanding the safe application of these products. If you have any questions, please call or email us for further information.

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Now not all Ylang Ylang is alike, and for those more candy-like blends I usually recommend our Ylang Ylang I, Organic, but in this article I'm highlighting my fast-growing favorite, our new Ylang Ylang Complete, Fine Organic. What makes this refined little lady so fine? She's distilled using the VOP (Very Old Process) method over a 6-7 hour period, rendering a full-spectrum "complete" oil, instead of the usual 20-24 hour distillation where all of the fractions are separated into Ylang Ylang Extra, and I, II and III.

Our Ylang Ylang Complete, Fine Organic is truly a fine perfumer's delight. Delicate, yet with stamina, this flower with power evokes the lusciousness of a sun soaked tropical forest. The voluptuous nature of this oil lends to its use as an aphrodisiac, and it's well-known for helping reduce anxiety and stress. Use it in blends that need a touch of refined sweetness, or up front to make a bold floral statement.

Here is a little recipe right in time for Valentine’s Day. It can be blended into carrier oil or alcohol, whatever your preference. This recipe makes approximately 1 ml of pure essential oil, so add an additional 4 ml of carrier oil or alcohol for a 20% strength natural perfume. It contains both flowers and chocolate to celebrate in style, and all of the oils used in this blend are said to have an aphrodisiac effect. Enjoy!

• 20 drops Bergamot Essential Oil
• 10 drops Ylang Ylang Complete, Fine - Organic Essential Oil
• 6 drops Pepper, Black Essential Oil
• 6 drops Amyris Essential Oil
• 2 drop Cocao Absolute

Please note: Cocao Absolute can leave tiny dark particles in the blend, so we suggest putting your perfume in a dark or opaque bottle instead of clear.

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Many considerations are taken into account throughout the entire process of producing essentials oils that are to be used for therapeutic purposes. For this reason, these aromatherapeutic grade essential oils tend to be harder to source and more expensive than commercial grade essential oils. Eden Botanicals is proud to offer you these highest-quality therapeutic grade essential oils at wholesale prices. True therapeutic grade essential oils are substantially different from commercial grade essential oils. In general, essential oils for aromatherapy are specifically grown for a special (small) sector within the essential oil market (which is within the Flavors and Fragrance industry). They are more expensive to purchase than commercial oils because more care has gone into the production of the plants, the distillation process, and the after-care of the oil, and they are made in batches that are smaller than commercial grade essential oil batches.

Specifically the following holds true for authentic essential oils that have been legitimately produced for the aromatherapy market.

Growing

Aromatherapy (aroma therapy) grade essential oils come from crops grown from seeds or root stocks that are true to species, subspecies, cultivar or variety and chemotype. They may be cultivated on small, independently owned farms or from larger farms and plantations, and they may have, or may not have, been grown using organic methods. The most important part in the growing cycle is that they have been grown and tended with care on soils that are healthy enough to produce quality crops. Other sources for aromatherapeutic grade essential oils are from plants that grow in the wild, where selective harvesting should be performed to ensure that the plants are able to continue to propagate on their own.

Harvesting

The correct timing for the harvest of cultivated or wild harvested plants, even to the time of day (especially for delicate flowers such as Jasmine and Rose), ensures the quality of fresh plant material, optimal yield of oil, and the desired proportions of constituents within the oil. During the harvest, whether by hand or by machinery, it is important that only the desired plant material is collected to the exclusion of other plants or weeds that may be growing along side the desired plants. Optimally, distillation takes place on the premises or the plant material may be transported to another location with care. Some plants or plant parts need to be distilled quickly after harvesting, while other material can sit (or actually needs to dry, etc.) before it is ready to distill. Some plants need to be sorted, cleaned, etc. before being distilled. In any case, the process needs to be monitored by someone who is knowledgeable and performed correctly for that specific plant type.

Distillation

A knowledgeable and experienced distiller is necessary to carefully monitor the process of distillation in order to create the highest quality of essential oils. Typically small batches of plant material in relatively small distillation units are used to create true aroma therapy essential oils. In contrast, commercial essential oils are produced more quickly in larger units and with higher heat.

A crucial factor in the distillation of aromatherapeutic grade essential oils is the use of lower temperatures and pressures, resulting in essential oils that are more representative of the oil’s constituents as they naturally occur in the plant. Higher temperatures and pressures employed in large stills and with large batches of plant material are used for the purpose of saving time and energy, so the integrity of the resulting oils is compromised. Essential oils produced in this way are considered commercial grade and are suitable for mass-produced food and beverage flavorings, soap manufacture, and similar uses.

A knowledgeable and experienced distiller is necessary to carefully monitor the process of distillation in order to create the highest quality of essential oils. Typically small batches of plant material in relatively small distillation units are used to create true aroma therapy essential oils. In contrast, commercial essential oils are produced more quickly in larger units and with higher heat.

A crucial factor in the distillation of aromatherapeutic grade essential oils is the use of lower temperatures and pressures, resulting in essential oils that are more representative of the oil’s constituents as they naturally occur in the plant. Higher temperatures and pressures employed in large stills and with large batches of plant material are used for the purpose of saving time and energy, so the integrity of the resulting oils is compromised. Essential oils produced in this way are considered commercial grade and are suitable for mass-produced food and beverage flavorings, soap manufacture, and similar uses.

The actual distillation process is likely the most demanding job and requires the most experience of any of the procedures necessary to produce high quality essential oils. A good analogy is the wine maker who uses his knowledge of science, technique and equipment, combined with extensive experience, and just as importantly combines this with his/her inner sense or intuition to manipulate many factors in order to produce the best quality end product.

Post-Distillation/After Care

Great care is taken in handling the end product of the distillation. Some oils require more after care than others, such as aeration to bring out the best possible aroma. There can also be a "pot", "off", or "still" note following even a well-executed distillation for some oils. To remove the offending note and to bring out the true aroma of the oil, a period of airing out is required. Some oils, such as Patchouli and Sandalwood, require aging to improve the aroma. These post-distillation processes can take days, weeks or even months for some oils, which will increase the cost of the final product. It is also important that no water remains in the essential oil and that the storage containers are new, clean, and of the right material for that particular oil.

Essential oils produced for the aroma-therapy market should be true to species, variety, chemotype, etc., as has already been mentioned. In terms of after-care, this means that different distillations may be combined, as long as the distillations are from the properly verified plant materials and no improperly distilled batches are included in the combined oil. Commercial-quality essential oils, however, are handled quite differently. They are usually made in large batches from many different distillations and are combined with minimal concern and discernment in the blending process. This means that different varieties (even different but related species or subspecies) may be combined together, or that oils from a wide geographic range may also be combined together. Once this happens, the true and authentic oil is lost.

Finally, proper labeling, dating, storage, and analysis will be conducted prior to marketing and transporting of the essential oils. Adulteration is a potential (and serious) factor in the post-production of essential oils, but we will leave that rather problematic side of the business for a separate article. It is important to stress, however, that therapeutic grade essential oils produced for the aromatherapy market should never be adulterated in any way, shape or form!

Once the essential oils (as well as the absolutes, CO2 extracts, organic extracts, etc.) we order reach us here at Eden Botanicals, they are allowed to "rest", usually overnight, before being decanted into new dark glass bottles or jars, labeled, and stored at a temperature of 60-64 degrees in a "cool" room that is much like a wine cellar. It is from there that they are carefully and lovingly poured into containers, labeled and sent on their way to you.