Aromatherapy is more than meets the nose. European research on essential oils attributes very specific effects to certain compounds found in aromatic plants. With practice, one can learn to detect these compounds by aroma alone. If these main compounds can be identified, one will also have a greater understanding of the chemistry and healing properties of an oil. A qualifier for these effects are that the compounds are only active in the presence of an array of sometimes hundreds of trace constituents which compose an essential oil. In other words, for maximum benefit a whole, complete and unadulterated essential oil is superior to an isolated compound.

Aldehydes are the aromatic compounds responsible for the tart, lemony fragrance we smell in Melissa (Melissa officinalis), Lemon Verbena (Lippia citriodora), Citronella (Cymbopogon nardus), Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus), and Lemon Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus citriodora). Lemon oil does not contain aldehydes and therefore does not share therapeutic properties with these oils.

Studies have shown that “essential oils with a high Aldehyde content” tend to display a sedating action on muscular tissue and have been used in therapeutic blends for their strong “sedative and anti-inflammatory effects” (Schnaubelt , 1995). Those experiencing pain and discomfort from overexertion, injury, arthritis or tendonitis often feel relief of symptoms after only one application of a blend which includes one of these aldehyde-rich essences. Aldehyde containing oils with the highest “citronellal content “ (Eucalyptus citriodora and Citronella) are considered to be the most appropriate for this particular use (Schnaubelt 1999).

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We are so lucky to have such amazing individuals choosing Eden Botanicals as their supplier that we've decided to showcase their talents via informational interviews which will appear in our newsletters. In this issue, we bring you Terry Bryant, Advanced Soapmaker and co-owner of MoonEssence, in Petaluma, CA:

My passion for natural soapmaking began in 1995 when I took a class on how to formulate natural products. I was taught the basics on how to make lip balm, soap and how to use essential oils - I was hooked. Fascinated by the chemistry aspect of it all, I volunteered at a local lab to learn more, and from there entered into the wonderful world of soapmaking.

For those who may not know, there are three levels of certification through the Soapmaker's Guild; Basic, Advanced and Master. I've worked through Basic and Advanced, and am currently in the process of getting my Master Soapmaker certification. Each step requires several tests of soapmaking ability whereby soap is created through cold, hot, and melt and pour processes at progressive levels of difficulty.

One of the most interesting things I have done to become certified includes making soap using the colonial method. This involves rendering tallow from beef fat and making lye from wood ash. This process definitely makes one appreciate what our ancestors went through to create basic necessities out of whatever materials they had on hand. I have used the colonial method to teach a group of volunteers working with the Osukuru village in Uganda, who in turn taught members of the community. The goal of this project was to spread the knowledge of soapmaking while simultaneously encouraging disease control and reducing the infant mortality rate. The tribe was able to learn every aspect of the soapmaking process, including creating their own tallow and lye. A chicken feather can actually be used as a natural pH strip to measure the alkalinity of homemade lye. If the feather dissolves upon insertion, the lye is deemed strong enough to complete the saponification process.

Our company, MoonEssence, is dedicated to providing premium, all natural/organic skin care. Our products are created using certified Organic, premium quality ingredients, including essential oils, and are FREE of Parabens, Mineral Oil, Petroleum derivatives, synthetics, and Sodium Lauryl Sulfate.

One of the challenges of using all natural materials is stabilizing the longevity of the aroma in soap. I've found it's always good to combine multiple notes. The top notes are more volatile and dissipate faster, middle notes have more longevity, and base notes the longest. Some oils - such as Clove Bud and Laurel Leaf, which contain Eugenol, can speed up the saponification process. This means your soap can get too firm, too fast. You may need to raise the temperature of your oils and lye water to prevent this from happening.

I typically don't use absolutes in my soaps, because they are too cost prohibitive. Although for hobbyists who make smaller batches of milled soap - the process of grating and re-melting soap - more expensive oils could work. When milling soap, the saponification process has already occurred so there is less heat and thus less loss of aroma. In short, you don't need to use as much essential oil to get similar results.

I use anywhere from 3-6.5 oz of pure essential oil for every 36 bars of soap made, with each bar in a batch weighing roughly 5 oz. When using essential oils, the scent will become locked inside and may not be perceived from the exterior of a dry bar. Upon wetting and lathering, the essential oils will be released and the smell will become more apparent. The aroma strength and longevity of essential oils is less than that of synthetic fragrances. However, the benefits far outweigh this drawback. Not only will essential oils drastically increase the therapeutic value of your soap but you will not be using potentially harmful chemicals on your skin, the largest and most absorptive organ in your body.

Our company also offers custom formulations as well as private labeling. I've created custom soaps for wineries such as Ceago, using their wine, olive oil & essential oil; soap for Point Reyes Blue Cheese using the whey from their factory, and for an olive oil company using the Sansa (ground up olive pits still full of oleic acid) to make their gardener's soap. I've also been commissioned to create gentle baby soaps from 100% castile, and a castile pet shampoo with essential oils for repelling fleas and ticks. My soaps have a pretty strong presence in the Northern California Whole Foods Markets as well.

The best way to pass on the soapmaking tradition is to teach. I offer a two-hour class that teaches you everything you need to know about soapmaking, including handouts on how to build your own formula according to personal desires and needs.

You will learn how different vegetable oils can create various types of foam and have their own cleansing abilities. We talk about the use of essential oils and other natural materials to incorporate into your soap to make it unique.

The cost of the class is $50, with a $12 materials fee. You get to take home two bars of soaps that you helped make, or, if you don't want to wait for the 4-week curing process, you can choose two bars of soap from my studio.

• To contact Terry:
• Email: terry@moonessence.com
• Phone: 707.763.5363
• Website: moonessence.com
• Address: 15 Western Ave., Petaluma, CA 94952

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The aroma of essential oils can evoke a myriad of emotional responses, depending on the chemistry of the oil and your own association with the smell. Their fragrances can arouse memories from childhood, as well as important moments in life that bring up an emotional response. They can be emotionally uplifting like Neroli, have aphrodisiac properties like Ylang Ylang, or help reduce anxiety like Marjoram or Mandarin. Printable PDF of Complete Article

Introduced to the Aromatherapy world for the first time only 15 years ago, Rosalina essential oil has become a quiet star. Rosalina is a member of the Melaleuca genus, which includes the more illustrious Tea Tree and Niaouli oils, but she has more in common with Lavender, Rosewood, Coriander Seed and Thyme ct linalool. These oils all contain a very high percentage of linalool, which is the monoterpene alcohol in Rosalina (between 42-62%), chiefly responsible for her systemic relaxing effects. Also present in major proportions in Rosalina are the oxide 1,8-cineole, an important respiratory support molecule, along with a group of monoterpenes, tiny molecules responsible for rapid activity against infection. Printable PDF of Complete Article

I sometimes feel like a broken record when asked how to sweeten up a natural perfume blend. My answer about 90% of the time: just a touch of Ylang Ylang. The thing about this ultra-sweet and heady flower is that it takes such a small amount in any blend to give a punch of sugar, even if your blend isn't particularly floral. A little bit really goes a long, long way.

Now not all Ylang Ylang is alike, and for those more candy-like blends I usually recommend our Ylang Ylang I, Organic, but in this article I'm highlighting my fast-growing favorite, our new Ylang Ylang Complete, Fine Organic. What makes this refined little lady so fine? She's distilled using the VOP (Very Old Process) method over a continual 6-7 hours, rendering a full-spectrum "complete" oil, instead of the usual 20-24 hour distillation where all of the fractions are separated into Ylang Ylang Extra, and I, II and III. Printable PDF of Complete Article

Many considerations are taken into account throughout the entire process of producing essentials oils that are to be used for therapeutic purposes. For this reason, these aromatherapeutic grade essential oils tend to be harder to source and more expensive than commercial grade essential oils. Eden Botanicals is proud to offer you these highest-quality therapeutic grade essential oils at wholesale prices. True therapeutic grade essential oils are substantially different from commercial grade essential oils. In general, essential oils for aromatherapy are specifically grown for a special (small) sector within the essential oil market (which is within the Flavors and Fragrance industry). They are more expensive to purchase than commercial oils because more care has gone into the production of the plants, the distillation process, and the after-care of the oil, and they are made in batches that are smaller than commercial grade essential oil batches.